In a hop-heavy world, brewers are finding inspiration in centuries-old farmhouse styles, writes James Smith.

WITH some beers, it's all about the hops. In others, brewers are keen to showcase the malt characters. In the case of saisons - an increasingly popular farmhouse style with origins stretching back centuries to Belgium - the yeast is the key.

Perhaps that's why Costa Nikias, the founder of one of Australia's newest brewing companies, went to such trouble to get hold of a strain with which he was happy.