Oats are not something you usually find in a brewer’s grain store. Barley is the beer-maker’s grain of choice, with wheat also widely used in certain types of beer.

But oats do feature in a couple of notable beer styles – oatmeal stouts and Belgian white beers. In both, they are used in quite moderate proportions – usually between five and 10 per cent of the total grain bill. Because oats are quite glutinous, using higher proportions can lead to problems with “stuck” mashes or slow run-offs after the mashing process.

The notion of oats as a sustaining and nutritious grain is common enough for us porridge eaters, and the same idea follows with oatmeal stouts which came to prominence in England after World War Two. Breast-feeding mothers and invalids alike, were often prescribed such beverages as a general “tonic” by their family doctors.

Apart from the nutritional value, oatmeal seems to add a silky mouthfeel to stouts and imparts a slight nutty character which enhances the coffee and dark chocolate flavour notes.

In the 2010 Sydney Royal Beer Competition a pair of oatmeal stouts topped the stout and porter category, with Redoak Oatmeal Stout winning a gold medal and Nail Stout snaring silver.

Nail Brewing owner/brewer John Stallwood says he uses “about 10 per cent” rolled oats in his Nail Stout. “It gives it a really silky, smooth body and it’s also really good for head retention, “he says. “You can overdose the use on lighter beers and you have to be a bit more careful with the mash recirculation and transfer as it can cause problems.”

Nail Stout has won multiple gold and silver medals at various beer competitions and Stallwood recently made an “imperial” version called Clout Stout, which he reports is nearing the end of its lengthy fermentation.

“It’s probably just over 10.5 per cent alcohol,” he says. “It’s our 10^th anniversary special limited edition but we’ll probably brew it every year now. It will be sold in 750ml bottles.”

Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout is perhaps the best-known imported version of this style, from the fiercely independent brewery in Tadcaster, Yorkshire – commonly referred to as “Sam Smith’s”, they don’t even have a website. They produce a fair range of dark beers with Taddy Porter, Extra Stout and Imperial Stout, besides the oatmeal expression.

St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout comes from the Quebec-based McAuslan Brewery and is another imported version to keep a look out for.

TASTING NOTES

NAIL STOUT (6%; WA)

Pleasantly complex with mocha, roasted malt and dark chocolate notes held neatly in balance; the finish is firm, smooth and well-rounded. Has few peers among local craft-brewed stouts.

REDOAK OATMEAL STOUT (5.5%; NSW)

Milky coffee notes come to the fore with some roasted background notes; a medium stout which finishes as smooth as a billiard ball. A highly drinkable stout which dances on the lighter side of the style.

ST-AMBROISE OATMEAL STOUT (5%; Canada)

Mild expresso and toffee notes initially, a hint of treacle tart emerges in mid-palate; finishes smooth with some well-integrated roasty hints. Another easy-drinking, medium stout interpretation.

SAMUEL SMITH (5%; UK)

The palate opens with luscious chocolate-caramel notes, delivered in a silken mouthfeel and smoothly, satisfying finish. The benchmark among imported oatmeal stouts.