| New brews ahead of their time |
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| Tuesday, 08 June 2010 21:41 | |||
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THERE was a time when beer-marketing folk seemed to go into hibernation during winter. These days, they are likely to roll out a limited-edition seasonal brew or a special annual release. Launched last month, Cascade 2010 First Harvest Ale is the ninth annual single-batch release, brewed with new-season Tasmanian malted barley and fresh, unkilned hop flowers. The challenge of using a different trio of experimental hop varieties has had mixed success and this year’s version is not a stand-out. Some of us crave the days when they used established hop strains such as cascade and willamette to give First Harvest Ale more recognisable character. James Squire’s seasonal releases have similarly varied over the years, with the flavoursome Hop Thief brews and Strong Winter Ale perhaps the most memorable. This year’s winter release is Malt Runner, a so-called bock of rather moderate alcohol and spiced with cocoa powder and cherry syrup. It works a little better than it sounds on paper. As the name suggests, the dominant maltiness keeps any over-the-top choc-cherry notes in check. The just-released Moo Brew 2009 Vintage Imperial Stout seems to improve each year. This third edition spent nine months maturing in a combination of new oak and ex-wine casks, before a further three months of bottle conditioning. A slightly more integrated palate is apparent but I’d give it another 12months in my fridge for a mellower result. Only 1515 of the 330-millilitre bottles will be available, at a cost of $25 each. Tasting notes CASCADE 2010 FIRST HARVEST (5.5per cent) Deep copper-gold. Aroma: hints of toffee, allspice and stone fruit. Palate: caramel notes initially, alively bitterness with earthy undertones in mid-palate and hints of hop oil; finishes with medium bitterness. Overall: fairly straightforward. JAMES SQUIRE MALT RUNNER (5.2per cent, pictured) Dark brown with chestnut highlights. Aroma: enticing Ovaltine and plum notes. Palate: caramel and cocoa notes up front, sweet cherry in mid-palate, rounded out with a roasty, dark chocolate-laced finish. Overall: adult version of Cherry Ripe without the sickly sweetness. MOO BREW 2009 VINTAGE IMPERIAL STOUT (8.5per cent) Dark brown-black; dense, foamy head. Aroma: coffee, coconut, cocoa and caramel notes. Palate: espresso notes initially, intense burnt-toffee mid-palate with oily, toasted coconut notes and sharp tannic hints; finishes with a complex mix of treacle, coffee and tar. Overall: formidably complex but sure to mellow over time.
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