So many liquor shops are becoming fine-beer specialists that it’s difficult keeping track of what’s new on the shelves. While the ever-increasing array of exotic overseas labels tend to grab most attention, we shouldn’t overlook interstate “imports” from craft breweries. It might seem at first glance to be like shipping coals to Newcastle for beer from eastern states to WA, but there’s a lot of worthwhile brewing over there which cannot be ignored.

  Three Moo Brew beers recently joined regular top shops’ stocks after coming in only intermittently. The award-winning brewery, on Moorilla Estate, a chalet-resort-concert-restaurant venue in Tasmania, is imposing and modern. Its beers, some unfiltered, come in striking 330ml mini-magnums with award-winning labels designed by Australian artist John Kelly. Moorilla commissioned him to produce a series of paintings in response to his sculpture series based on William Dobell's camouflaged cows.

  Perhaps the most striking artwork is on the Hefeweizen bottle, with a stylised kangaroo silhouetted against a grey textured sky. But for all the style, the permanent beer range leans towards standard microbrewery choices.

  This is not the case with Abbey Ale. This rare southern hemisphere Belgian-style golden monastic beer   has just become available from bottle shops instead of being restricted to New Norcia in country WA. Under an ancient protocol, it is brewed at Malt Shovel craft brewery in Sydney but sanctioned by and stored at the Benedictine monastery, and, until now, sold in cartons of 330ml bottles and on tap only at the New Norcia Inn and by mail order.

 Inscribed on the Abbey Ale carton is the following: “Pax (Latin for ‘peace’) is the motto of the monks of New Norcia. It is the fruit of their ‘stable and prayerful life, and the gift they offer to all who visit their town’.” But the monks have agreed to allow direct sales of the ale without the need to visit their town.

  Another beer under the auspices of Malt Shovel brewmaster Chuck Hahn has also become more readily available to meet demand. Kosciuszko Pale Ale is brewed in a 600-litre, direct-fired microbrewery in the cellar of the Banjo Paterson Inn at Jindabyne in the Snowy Mountains. But special batches are now coming out of Malt Shovel’s expanding brewery for bottling on a bigger scale to supply selected stores.

   “It’s going very well in special beer shops in Perth and Fremantle,” said Dr Hahn, who is known to respect our State as a leader in beer appreciation.

THE BEERS

MOO BREW PALE ALE (4.9 PER CENT) 

American hop varieties seem to define this ale. Late hopping lends a powerful floral and citrus aroma, lots of fruit flavour, notably orange and peach, and roof-of -mouth dryness continue the hoppy theme, but the expected bitter finish is instead lemony astringent. A pleasant enough but unremarkable new world pale ale.

MOO BREW HEFEWEIZEN (5.1 PER CENT)

Modelled on classic German wheat beer, the unfiltered, refreshing ale needs a gentle shake before pouring for the naturally cloudy look to materialise. If not, it appears clear yellow under the exuberant stein-worthy foaming white head. The yeasty aroma of sweet banana has a citrus edge, and the carbonated palate is toffee sweet with some vanilla creaminess.

MOO BREW DARK ALE (5 PER CENT)

The dark amber colour with reddish depths, plus the glass-lacing beige head, typify the roasted malts regularly used in porters and English dark ales. Though Moo Brew calls it an American beer, it evokes the Newcastle Brown from England’s Geordie-land, possibly with similarly wide appeal. Hop influence is minimal. Alert noses may pick up faint hints of toast and coffee. Sweet and fruity with coffee and chocolate notes stamp the fairly fizzy ale that’s all about malt – even in the perceived finishing bitterness. Some may even find an echo of childhood’s sarsaparilla soft drink.

ABBEY ALE (7 PER CENT)

Sumptuous from aroma to long, fruity finish, this golden-coloured ale is good enough to chew. Brewers’ sugar and Belgian yeast working with elegant maltiness create the authentic abbey ale sensation. A complex palate includes orange and stone fruit on a sweet, rich toffee base, yet there’s spice and warming spirity skeins. This is one for sipping from a goblet or brandy glass after a meal or as a nightcap.

KOSCIUSZKO PALE ALE (4.5 PER CENT)

Galaxy and Pride of Ringwood Aussie hops give the light-gold ale it’s fruity, medium-bitter character, starting with a faintly earthy aroma and tropical fruit notes. Firm body and smooth palate carry apricot, melon and tangerine flavours to a sweet’n’dry, medium-long finish. This may be an easy drinker but it has enough complexity to keep your interest.

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QUICK ONE

The Duckstein mini-keg won the Can of The Year trophy at this month’s Australian Beer Can Collectors’ Association annual Canathon in Newcastle, NSW. Club secretary  Ray Hodgson informed Paul Gasmier just before he left his head brewer position at the South-West brewery to join Gage Roads this week(SUBS: Feb 15).  “The five-litre Duckstein mini-kegs for takeaway customers were taken off sale around Oktoberfest last year as the brewery couldn't keep up with demand . . . our little brewery was working beyond maximum capacity,” Mr Gasmier said. But he expects the award-winning kegs to be back at the start of next month (SUBS:March) filled with craft-brewed Duckstein Pilsner and Hefeweiss (cloudy wheat beer). The beer-can gang hopes to present his award in the SW on March 20.

From Fresh, The West Australian, February 25th