From Fresh, The West Australian, Dec 4

Two new beers make a change from the stream of bottled releases because they are on draught only. One is a strong ale from WA’s Gage Roads, the other a summery bitter from Matilda Bay’s craft brewhouse in Victoria.

Gage Roads has oak-aged its award-winning Belgian-style Saison, on tap exclusively at Clancy’s Fish Pubs in Fremantle and Canning Bridge. The farmhouse ale was cold-matured in French oak barrels for nine months – “an experiment that worked amazingly well,” head brewer Aaron Heary said. “We weren’t quite sure what the results would be or what might be living within the barrel walls, so it was a pleasant surprise when we tapped the first barrel.

“One of our brewers, Charlie Hodgson, was very passionate about the project. He got his hands on some ex-chardonnay barrels. They were just perfect,” Mr Heary said. “It’s a credit to beer lovers in this State that venues like Clancy’s exist for us to display unique beer styles.”

Clancy’s Fremantle manager Jane Dickson placed a second order after only a week, saying: “People have been very open to Saison, surprisingly for such a full-flavoured, strong ale.”

Only enough draught Saison was produced for about 600 serves at each Clancy’s pub. If you miss out, Gage Roads Saison is also available in wax-dipped 800ml champagne bottles, each of the 4500 individually numbered. They’re on sale at: The Broken Hill, Victoria Park; Cellarbrations at Carlisle, Como, Harbourside and Bullcreek; Frankel Street Liquor; Gooseberryy Hill Cellars; International Beer Shop; The Freo Doctor; Old Bridge Cellars, Subiaco Hotel; Tradewinds, Fremantle; Ultimo Liquor; Beer Store, Morley; La Vigna; and Liquor Barons at Busselton, Carlisle, Claremont, Dalkeith, Herdsman, Mt Lawley, Lesmurdie, South Perth and Swanbourne.

The new draught from Matilda Bay’s Garage Brewery is a US-influenced pale ale called Fat Yak. It’s named after a robust Himalayan mammal that’s raced and trained as a family pet because, says Matilda Bay, it is similarly “gutsy and hairy but very approachable”. You have to love the glasses, adorned with quirky quotes from yak breeders, riders and a grumpy farmer.

Fat Yak is a sort of younger brother to the other Matilda Bay craft pale ale, Alpha - the staff nickname it “Little Alpha”. While echoing Alpha Pale Ale’s hop character, fewer hops were used, head brewer Scott Vincent said. The difference is apparent as the two are poured: Alpha’s head is a rich, off-white; Fat Yak’s is white; Alpha is burnished copper in colour, Fat Yak is close to the typical “amber” Aussie lager.

“We realise that Alpha Pale Ale has its own following but also that it might be fairly challenging for some people,” Mr Vincent said. “We developed Fat Yak to introduce a wider market to a pale ale with flavour and point them to appreciating more complex beers,”

The brew team started the beer six months ago and Mr Vincent arrived in September in time to supervise finishing touches.

Fat Yak is on tap at: Balmoral, Broken Hill and The Publican, Victoria Park; Brass Monkey, Northbridge; Clancy’s; The Como; The Floreat; Flying Scotsman and Queens, Highgate; Mullalooo Beach Tavern; Norfolk Hotel, Fremantle; Royal, East Perth; The Vic, Subiaco; and Wembley Tavern.

THE BEERS

Gage Roads Oak-Aged Saison (5.8 per cent)

The Saison gains a rocky, white foam head from secondary fermentation. The deep amber, reddish ale is surprisingly drinkable.. East Kent Goldings hoppiness on the nose and a sour cherry front taste quickly give way to sweet berries and a parade of fruit and vanilla flavours, tannins, spice and a sharpish finish.

Matilda Bay Fat Yak (4.4 per cent)

While less full-on than 5.2 per cent Alpha, the lower-alcohol Yak’s medium-bodied, crisply carbonated palate is better suited to sinking a few at a session. The head laces the glass well and hop character lends a citrus lift on nose and tongue and ample bitterness in the long aftertaste.

QUICK ONES

A new shipment of cleanskin IPA has arrived at the International Beer Shop after the first load sold out swiftly to hop-heads. It’s a craft-brewed malty bitter packed with aromatic US-style hops.

Perth finalists in the Redback Gourmet Pub Awards are: Brisbane Hotel, Highgate; Clancy’s Fish Pub, Fremantle; Inglewood Hotel; and JB O’Reilly’s, West Leederville. Judging takes place this month.

The Beer and Beef Club, whose members hold monthly lunches at different venues, heralded next year’s new direction by making the final 2008 beer-and-meal a ladies’ day event at Lake Karrinyup Country Club on November 26, with guest speaker Perth Lord Mayor Lisa Scaffidi.