When Canadian-brewed, Belgian-style beers from Unibroue suddenly stopped coming into Australia, a gap opened in life’s enjoyment for many people. Gone were such beloved beverages as the Trappist-style trippel ale La Fin du Monde (French for “end of the world”), strong dark ales Trois Pistoles and Maudite (“damned”) and Raftman smoked pale ale.

  But the gap has been filled. South Australian importer Palais has given lovers of Quebec microbrewed ales reason to thank God in Heaven – or Dieu du Ciel, as the craft brewery is named.

   Beer-specialist shops in WA now have a raft of different Dieu du Ciel beers - in 341ml bottles, for some inscrutable reason. They have twist-off caps, familiar to those who like old-fashioned Aussie stubbies. In contrast, the attractive labels are exotic, preparing the senses for some equally unusual brews.

DIEU DU CIEL BEERS

ROUTE DES EPICES (5 PER CENT)

An historical theme of the seaborne spice routes manifests itself in a deep-copper coloured ale with peppercorn and rye for piquant pleasure. It’s a mellow, subtly malt-smooth drink. Then peppery warmth sneaks along the tongue to a satisfying bitter finish.   

APHRODISIAQUE (6.5 PER CENT)

Some people believe this black creamy stout lives up to its name. It smells and tastes of vanilla, dark chocolate, roasted malt and just a hint of whisky. The brewers chuck in cocoa and vanilla beans, organic fair-trade products for peace of mind. These blend nicely with the malts in a silky, well-balanced, easy drinking beer with wide appeal. An extra bitter cocoa edge lifts restrained hop characters.

DERNIERE VOLONTE (6.5 PER CENT)

Blond beers are not, as some marketing claims, bland lagers. Rather, they are the product of Belgian brewing genius – like this one, modelled on monastic ales. Dieu du Ciel isn’t the only New World brewery to reproduce the style, as Australia’s New Norcia Abbey Ale has proved by winning international awards. Derniere Volonte means “last will”, but tasting the beer’s candy, malty, hoppy complexity is more likely to spur a will to carry on.

CORNE AU DIABLE (6.9 PER CENT)

India pale ale may not be recognised as a French, Belgian or Canadian style.  But if - as the brewery in Quebec does with this devilish drop – you use enough fine malt balanced with bags of hops, some in flower form, then it hardly matters. The coppery colour is classic, as is the earthy, floral nose. A blast of resiny, citrus hop flavour bursts on the palate. If the alcohol level is high, then the bitterness is commensurate. So that’s just fine. 

PECHE MORTEL (9.5 PER CENT)

Seriously strong beer earns the title “imperial”, and when it’s a stout with coffee overtones the luxury and decadence of old-style empires should be apposite. Trouble is, this coffee seem stale, as if left standing on the hob too long. It makes the stout too astringent and almost unpleasant.

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

ALE  TALE

LAST DROP STRATFORD BITTER (4.4 PER CENT)

Since Last Drop’s Czech-trained lager specialist Jan Bruckner brewed a pale ale he’s taken enthusiastically  to top-fermented beers. His second batch of Stratford Bitter, defined by floral and spicy characters of Fuggles, East Kent Goldings and Challenger hops, is more earthy and biscuity than before. Crystal malt gives it a copper colour, but slightly lighter, and the alcohol level is lower. Typical of English bitter, there’s good body and requisite toffee and stone fruit on the soft palate. And while bitterness is a tad low in the middle it’s ample at the end in what is a well-balanced, well achieved ale. Stratford Bitter is draught only, on tap at Last Drop pubs and as a guest beer at Guildford’s Woodbridge Hotel.

  If you’re visiting Melbourne, look out for Last Drop’s witbier, Forbidden Ale, at The Local Taphouse.

From Fresh, The West Australian, 5th August