From Fresh, The West Australian, June 28

Cosy winter evenings by the fire turn thoughts to chunky soup, casseroles, roasts, hot puddings – in short, comfort food. Well, beer is a food and styles such as stout, strong and vintage ale and double bock present themselves as warming beverages.

Personally, when the wind gets up and rain and temperatures come down, I lean towards any porter in a storm. This English dark ale style has advanced greatly since its origins as the basic slurp of 18th century London’s working class. With advanced techniques, improved ingredients, quality control and inventiveness, brewers have refined porter into a classy, medium-bodied, comforting nightcap or accompaniment to cheese, dessert or chocolate nibbles.

Billabong Porter (4.9 per cent): This perfect porter, brewed in Myaree since last November already has won two silver medals. The firm khaki head is a blast from the past, but the lip-smacking liquid is modern with subtle chocolate and mocha coffee tones.

Okocim Porter (8.3 per cent): A Polish gold medal winner in the US. Initial liquorice flavour has a sharp medicinal edge then smoothes out to a mellow, treacly finish with a hint of fruitcake. Before globalised lager, porter was Poland’s favourite beer.

Emerson’s London Porter (5 per cent): The frothy head smells of roasted malt and coffee. The dark brown colour and chocolate richness nicely balanced with hop bitterness make for an exemplary porter.

James Squire Porter (5 per cent): Unusually delicately flavoured due to long maturation and lager yeast fermentation. Roasted wheat malt as well as barley lends a creamy texture to mouth-coating flavours.

Korbinian (7.4 per cent): Immaculate, sumptuous, nutty, spicy, black, liquid treacle-pudding in a 500ml bottle. One of the best from Germany’s ancient Weihenstephan brewery.

Carlton Black (4.4 per cent): Under-estimated, refreshingly carbonated, smoothly balanced Aussie dark mild ale suits sessions when freezing lager lacks appeal. Unchallenging, yet with enough roasted malt character to satisfy.

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QUICK ONES

Next week’s busy schedule for beer fans starts on Wednesday(SUBS July4) with the Indi Brewhaus beer dinner. As well as the Indi brews, Chuck Hahn will be matching James Squire beers with specially designed dishes. The event starts at 7pm; cost is $85 per head for beer and five-course meal. A mini bus will run from Perth. Contact Claire on 9400 1188, email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

WA Beer Week kicks off at Clancy’s Fish Pub, Cantonment Street, Fremantle at 7.30pm on Thursday, July 5, opened by MLA Jim McGinty. The launch gives the public a chance to sample beers from award-winning craft breweries including Billabong, Colonial, Jarrah Jack’s, Last Drop, Little Creatures, Matso’s, Nail Brewing, Sail & Anchor and Tanglehead. Look out for special events and offers at craft venues over following days.

The WA Wine and Food Festival runs from Friday July 6 to Sunday at the Perth Convention Exhibition Centre. Meet WA Brewers Association members at 15 beer stands, where draught ales and lagers are will be served and bottles sold to take away. Chuck Hahn of Malt Shovel and Colonial’s Dean Mcleod will conduct beer seminars.

Ocean Beach’s craft-brewed Ocean Blonde kolsch is spreading, now on tap at The Settler's in Margaret River, the Bayswater Hotel, Fremantle’s Norfolk Hotel and at Clancy's, Applecross.