BLASTS FROM THE PAST

from Fresh, The West Australian, May 28

A reader awoke memories when he emailed asking whether he should dare to drink a bottle of Hahn Millennium Vintage Ale he’d had since 1999. My advice was “go for it”.

This brew was a truly momentous step for a big brewing company known for making lager for the mass market. No expense was spared to mark entry into the new century; the brewers were given open slather to indulge their creative whims and the result, in a wired-cork sealed 750ml champagne bottle, was probably the best beer produced in Australia in living memory.

Even on its release, this breakthrough brew stunned the palate with rich flavour layers. In following years, periodic tastings found the ale, evolving through yeast interaction in the bottle, developed deeper, sumptuous, plummy, cakey notes. After five years or so it started to resemble fortified wine and there were reports that the occasional bottle – possibly not stored properly - had started to “turn”. This might be manifest in vinegar-like notes or mustiness making it unpleasant. But top bottles, stored upright in a cool, dark spot, were still drinking beautifully last year.

My last bottle of this 1999 vintage was drunk,, appreciatively, back in 2007, but I was spurred recently by reader Bruce Segilmann of East Fremantle to open a bottle of the second batch brewed by the Lion Nathan-Hahn team in 2000. And I can recommend anyone who has one tucked away to do the same. It’s matured magnificently.

In the meantime, Mr Segilmann and friend Arnold Jones went ahead and popped the cork of his 1999-brewed Hahn Millennium Ale – with equal satisfaction.

HAHN 2000 SPECIAL VINTAGE ALE (8 PER CENT)

A tight oatmeal head atop the dark fluid in a brandy goblet resembles Irish coffee at first glance, until warm ruby points glint in the light and the rich port-like aroma tickles the nostrils. Nine years of cosying up to yeast in the champagne bottle has made the ale grow up to a mellowed yet exciting drink, almost outgrowing its beer origins. The flavours are not going to happen every day so are worth savouring - port-sherry-raisin, on a warming spirity base which also admits grainy brewhouse notes.

HAHN MILLENNIUM ALE (8 PER CENT)

Bruce Segilmann and friend Arnold Jones were smitten by the 10-year-old ale: “We started out with tasting glasses then moved on to larger balloon shaped glasses. The ale tasted excellent, not unlike the James Squire India Pale Ale - which we had a sip of before and after the Millennium Ale - only more complex, with mellow raisin and fruit characteristics. Worth waiting 10 years for,” they reported.

ALE TALE

MONTEITH’S DOPPELBOCK WINTER ALE (6 PER CENT)

The third annual limited release of the New Zealand winter seasonal derives from the “liquid bread” brewed for sustenance by fasting 16th century Bavarian monks. It pours from the 330ml bottle with a dense head and has a powerful aroma from NZ-grown Hallertau noble hops. These balance chocolate and fruit notes from four specialty malts as well as amber and pilsner malts, which in turn match the warm, rich flavours with a reddish glow to the beer’s colour. Limited release Winter Ale is available at Coles, Dan Murphy’s, Woolworths and independent stores.

By Vic Crossland