Among the 15 WA microbreweries busy perfecting their entries for the Australian International Beer Awards is the reigning champion small brewery, Feral Brewing. A visit to the brew-restaurant at Baskerville in the Swan Valley provides an insight into what makes a national champion. It’s evident from the current 12 beers poured from new wall taps: they range from the renowned Feral White Belgian-style cloudy wheat beer to an 11.5 per cent imperial stout, from hoppy, bitter ales to a non-bitter Belgian farmhouse ale. There’s only one lager.   

  At the time of Feral’s 2009 triumph, I asked head brewer and joint owner Brendan Varis for the secret of his success. “It’s a matter of complete understanding between me and (assistant) Will Irving,” he replied simply.

But it goes beyond that. Mr Varis’ grasp of brewing fundamentals has long been recognised. He’s the one to whom less experienced WA craft brewers turn for advice, freely given. And Mr Varis refuses to “brew what everyone else is doing”, constantly pushing the boundaries.

   A project he started 18 months ago with half-a-dozen or so full-size wine barrels has borne fruit - the quirkily named Dark Funk lambic-like sour ale. It’s new on tap after long maturing in oak, purposely infected with lactobacillus and pediococcus bacteria.

  “It’s not to everyone’s taste,” he admits. “We blended a strong Belgian ale through the beer to balance the acidity and add a bit of body.”

   As well, an established favourite, Farmhouse Ale, is now served only after it has aged six months for six months in shiraz barrels “for cleansing acidity and vanilla and oak character”.

   Most of the Feral beers are to come from wine barrels. There are about 25 now racked on site and a similar number stored at a nearby winery. “We have 5000 litres in oak barrels,” Mr Varis said. Because he’s such a perfectionist, he adds that the barrels are new “so we have to use them much more before they’ll impart all the qualities needed in the type of beers we ultimately want”.

   Mr Varis is in demand internationally and nationally as a top beer judge: in coming weeks he’ll be judging at the Royal Sydney Beer Show and NZBrew, in May he’ll be chief judge at the Perth Royal Beer Show and later he’s off to the US for a second stint on the World Beer Cup panel. While Will Irving keeps the home brews firing, Mr Varis will be organising a bottling line to complement the sole packaged beer, Feral White. “By mid-year we’ll start bottling many of our beers,” he promised, while issuing a price warning. “Bottling won’t change the passion and quality of the brewing, so even if it’s expensive we won’t compromise.”

 Perhaps that is the key to a champion brewer.

THE BEERS

FERAL WHITE (4.6 PER CENT)

The trophy winning witbier has 50-50 barley and wheat, coriander and orange peel for spicy citrus flavour,  and fermented with Belgian yeast.

HOP HOG (5.8 PER CENT)

Australia’s champion ale is a US-style IPA with strong pine needle and citrus aroma and full  hop character, including fruity bitterness and dry finish.

THE RUNT (4.7 PER CENT)

For IPA beginners, the Runt is Australian-oriented: ie; less bitter and more subdued than the Hog.

PILSENER (5 PER CENT)

Late-hopping with noble Saaz lends floral hop aroma to a rather dry, medium-bodied malt lager that’s crisp and refreshing, with the correct bitterness and more flavour than most Australian attempts at this style.

MILD CHILD (3.5 PER CENT)

The English-style mild ale - a refined version of the top 2008 WA amateur brew – may be reduced in alcohol but has bags of body and malty caramel-choc flavour.

OAK-AGED FARMHOUSE ALE (4 PER CENT)

Slightly cloudy and orange-amber in colour, with big spice and citrus aroma, this “saison” cries European style. Infusions of ginger, cured orange peel, coriander and Thai palm sugar make for a sweet, faintly marmalade front palate and ginger-dry finish. Beautiful.

SMOKED PORTER (4.7 PER CENT)

Inspired use of peated distiller’s malt gives a subtle smoked hickory flavour. Coffee and chocolate characters are balanced with “gentle” bitterness.

DARK FUNK (5.2 PER CENT)

The red ale, fermented in chardonnay barrels, soured with bacteria and blended with a little Rust ale, exudes acidic, vanilla-touched aroma. Acidity races across the palate to a solid malt finish and faintly oak aftertaste.

RUST (6 PER CENT)

Rich “dubbel” abbey-style ale has Belgian yeast sending banana sweetness to the nostrils. In the mouth it’s all malty opulence with an astringent finale.

FANTAPANTS (7.4 PER CENT)

When American influence meets classical style – an “imperial” red-hued IPA described by Mr Varis as “offensively bitter”. It has sweetness, passionfruit and pineapple smells and biscuity palate.

RAZORBACK (10 PER CENT)

Another Feral champion, this fruity, hoppy, reddish, British-style barley wine is big on aroma, malty flavours and alcohol.

BORIS (11.5 PER CENT)

Russian imperial stout was originally made very special and strong for royalty. Hence this black brew with off-white head, big choc-coffee aroma and espresso, caramel, toast and licorice flavours with a lift of vanilla and warming, spirity finish.

ALE TALE

HOP BACK SUMMER LIGHTNING (5 PER CENT)

As the original English summer ale, this is a recognised trendsetter in the brewing industry – you might know Australia’s take on the style, James Squire Golden Ale. Contrarily, both are now brewed all year round instead of just seasonally. Hopback brews a sessionable, medium-bodied, straw-coloured beer with a terrific fresh, hoppy aroma and excellent long, dry, intensely bitter finish, best drunk chilled but not lager-icy. Not surprisingly, this ale ranks among the most awarded beers in Britain.

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 from Fresh, The West Australian 18th Feb