From Fresh, The West Australian Jan 15

THERE was a buzz at the bar. Blokes nudged each other and pointed. A queue formed. Exclamations such as “I don’t believe you can get that here,” and “Pints all round,” were heard. The publican was on the phone ordering more kegs while a woman in our group proclaimed she’d been converted to beer.

That’s what happens when one of the best-loved English ales becomes available on tap in WA.

Marston’s Pedigree, a traditional copper-coloured bitter brewed in the renowned ale centre of Burton-on-Trent, is special on several counts. It’s made with natural Burton “hard” spring water from the brewery’s six wells – the water brewers worldwide try to copy with minerals. Only traditional British ale ingredients are used - Maris Otter barley malt and Fuggles and Goldings hops - “rather than less-expensive, commercially grown modern hybrids”.

Cricket fans may have noticed that Pedigree is the official beer of the England Test team. But what really makes Pedigree unique is that it is the only beer still brewed in the oak casks of the Burton Union system.

It happens in a great hall stacked with rows of barrels in what has been called the “cathedral of brewing”. As the wort in the barrels ferments, the yeasty solution pushes up swan-neck pipes into a trough or vat atop a set of casks are aligned “in union”. The beer then runs back into the barrels, but the yeast stays behind in the vat. This means the wooden barrels contain clear, bright beer after four days - and the yeast mysteriously picks up a distinctive Pedigree character to propagate for future brews.

Most brewers have abandoned this traditional method due to its extra cost and labour intensive maintenance, with a skilled cooper constantly servicing the wooden barrels.

You may think it’s quite a feat for WA-based importer Paul Wormley to get draught Pedigree for his World Brands Australia company. But he says the revered old brewery was only too pleased to send kegs Down Under.

“Marston’s is pro-active on exports to Europe and the US. When I contacted them about supplying Australian pubs they were eager to help. I’m particularly pleased because I love Pedigree and now I can get a pint at the bar,” Mr Wormley said.

Because it has to be shipped across the world, the Marston’s Pedigree on draught across Australia is kegged, unlike the cask version served on handpumps in Britain.

Marston’s Pedigree (4.5 per cent) is the epitome of English bitter, copper in colour, slightly fruity on the nose with just a touch of sulphur initially, drinking light on the tongue, with spicy tones and wonderfully balanced dry finish – piquant enough to order another. Pedigree is on tap at The Vernon Arms Tavern, Baldivis, Moon & Sixpence, Perth, Kingsley Tavern and Woodvale Tavern.

Marston’s Smooth (3.6 per cent) is also on tap. Because it’s nitrogenated, with the tight, creamy head popularised by Kilkenny, Tetley’s and other “smooth” draught ales, it may appeal to local tastes. Certainly, Golding and Fuggles hops create the clean bitter taste - but purists might shudder at the late addition of US Cascade hops. These impart the hallmark American citrus aroma introduced to Australians via Matilda Bay Alpha Pale Ale and Little Creatures Pale Ale and since adopted by many domestic craft brewers.

Until now, Marston’s beer has been available here only in packaged form – it’s worth comparing a 500ml bottled Pedigree with a draught pint.

Old Empire (5.7 per cent) is another outstanding Marston’s bottled ale. This India pale ale, modelled on the self-preserving beer sent to British troops in the 19th century colonies, is a pale-coloured, crisp yet tasty fruity refresher that is thoroughly hop-driven from floral whiff to long, bitter finish. One of the very best IPAs.

Hobgoblin ruby ale (4.5 per cent draught, 5.2 per cent bottled) is notable among other English beers on tap in specialist pubs. Apart from being ideal for chefs to use in beef and ale pies, the dark red, slightly bitter ale, full-bodied enough to chew, is for those who like flavour with kick. Roasted, crystal and chocolate malts with Fuggles and Goldings hops make for toffee and fruity malt satisfaction. It’s available on tap in Perth at the Moon & Sixpence and Elephant and Wheelbarrow, Albany’s Earl of Spencer and Vernon Arms, Baldivis.

By Vic Crossland