From Fresh, The West Australian, March 12

St Patrick’s Day craic means toasting the patron saint of Ireland. But when he asked followers to mark his passing with a tipple he didn’t specify a brand. So, while Guinness will grab its customary lion’s share next Tuesday, there are other stouts and porters offering different aspects of the style.

St Peter’s Cream Stout (6.5 per cent)

With a rocky head resembling Yorkshire pudding and auburn depths of mellow, herbal flavour, St Peters is the epitome of how microbrewing asserts traditional standards. Challenger and Fuggles hops and four Suffolk malts go to make a delicious cream stout with the bitter bite that distinguished stouts from early, rather sweet, porters. St Peter’s Old Style Porter (5.1 per cent) is worth comparing: it pours almost black with beige foam, and is all strong malt with undertones of liquorice, chocolate and coffee – ideal to drink with dessert.

Gonzo Imperial Porter (8.7 per cent)

Gonzo comes from the Denver-based Flying Dog brewery and, like many American things, is rather over the top. This applies both to the stetson-wearing skull uttering “OK, Let’s party” on the label to the massive dollop of flavour - sooty, smoky, liquorice-edged with harsh roastiness and a spirity skein of alcohol, all on a thick, unctuous, almost sticky palate. Lovely, once you get used to it.

Nail Stout (6 per cent)

WA’s first serious challenger to commercial stouts was always a top drop. The current brew is even classier, crafted with rolled oats making it smoother, secondary fermentation making it tastier and slightly lower alcohol making it more approachable. Nail Stout is worthy of the top awards won in the past two years.

Samuel Smith’s Famous Taddy Porter (5 per cent)

The worldwide fame of this Yorkshire drop comes from perfect balance, impeccable brewing methods and high praise by the late beer guru Michael Jackson. Plus, it has all the characteristics of classic British porter: rich, creamy, dry with huge but disguised bitterness. Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery uses hard water from a well sunk in 1758 and ferments its ales in slate-lined Yorkshire open squares in the brewing town of Tadcaster – hence the name Taddy.

James Squire Porter (5 per cent)

Chuck Hahn’s brew team has beefed up James Squire Porter, using an ale yeast instead of the original lager strain and packing in more hops to balance the coffee-liquorice flavours of barley and wheat. A distinctive hit of earth and leather on the nostrils evokes old-fashioned stout qualities. Although more robust than before, the smooth brew still has the delicacy to match fine desserts such as chocolate truffle and vanilla mascarponi.

Brew Boys Ace of Spades (5.9 per cent)

The beige head giving coffee-choc aroma atop the black stout poured from the 630ml bottle – ample for two serves - sets the tone for a full-on, grainy, espresso-mocha, caramel and toasty mouthful of yesteryear’s “stout porter” from Adelaide. For lovers of strong beer flavours only: a lingering burnt molasses aftertaste is not for the faint-hearted.

Marston’s Oyster Stout (4.5 per cent)

Everyone knows stout accompanies oysters. What is less well known is that some British – mainly Manx and southern – seaport breweries once added oyster concentrate to the roast-malt brew. Today’s main example of the style comes from Marston’s – without oysters. Even so, the silky, full-flavoured stout is a palate-pleaser. Conditioned in the 500ml bottle, it must be poured in one smooth “go”.

B

lack Wych (4.5 per cent)

Wychwood blossomed from a two-man microbrewery to a British institution in 20 years, thanks not only to attractive labels but to good beer. Not really black, this major award-winning stout looks more like a dark brown ale, though the roasted malt and oats plus loads of Progress hops lend a dry bitterness to the smooth, toasty brew that will resonate with stout fans.

Here’s To You, Arthur

This year marks the 250th anniversary of Guinness, the stout originally from Ireland but now a global brand which claims St Patrick’s Day for its own. In preparation for next Tuesday’s celebrations, the company has produced 1000 party packs for participating Australian pubs and bars. The packs include the Guinness shamrock top hat.

“People across Australia are expected to mark this very important day in the traditional way by celebrating with a cold Guinness, a great pub and their best mates,” marketing manager Jonathan Curnow said. “But this year they should raise a glass for the man who made it all happen 250 years ago – Arthur Guinness.”

The famous bitter stout became a chilled, nitrogenated, on-tap draught about 40 years ago and also manifests itself in widget cans and bottles as well as sonic-surged “schooners”, all with the hallmark white head.

The story began when Mr Guinness signed a 9000-year lease on an old brewery site on the outskirts of Dublin in 1759. As well as ales, he brewed porter to a recipe different from the London version. In 1769 the first shipment of Guinness “stout porter” sailed for England, starting a world-wide phenomenon. Now, in 150 countries, more than 10 million glasses of Guinness are drunk every day.

To plan where to wear the green and drink the black on St Patrick’s Day, try Guinness’ online Pint Finder on www.Guinness.com.au , also available as a Facebook application. It provides venue locations and travel directions and details of festivals and parades using Google Maps technology.

By Vic Crossland

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